THE STORY OF SECUNDERABAD

Warning: Long Post

(This post is based on a video of my talk on the same subject. The video is available here: https://youtu.be/Xb2vBaC6gGs)

Read on if you are a Hyderabadi. 
Or if you are interested in history.
Or both!



Clock Tower, Secunderabad 


HISTORY OF HYDERABAD TILL THE FOUNDING OF SECUNDERABAD IN 1806

Today Secunderabad is subsumed in the vast urban sprawl called "Greater Hyderabad". Its sobriquet of Hyderabad's “Twin City” gives just a hint of days when the two were indeed different cities separated by several kilometres. 

But Secunderabad was not an organic growth of Hyderabad. Rather, it came into being as a result of a Treaty. The two cities have different origins and development trajectories. This Post specifically attempts to trace the Origin of Secunderabad. 

To understand why Secunderabad came into being as a twin of Hyderabad, it is instructive to look into Hyderabad's pre-history, dating to almost three centuries earlier. 

At the end of the 15th century, the Bahmani kingdom, which had been battling the Vijaynagar Empire, started disintegrating. Five separate Deccan Sultanates resulted – Ahmednagar, Bidar, Berar, Bijapur and Golconda.




In 1518 AD, Sultan Quli, the Governor of Golconda under the Bahmani Court, took control of Golconda as an independent kingdom. The dynasty he founded came to be known as the Qutb Shahi dynasty. It would rule Golconda and then Hyderabad for the next 158 years.

Golconda was well connected to the eastern port city of Machlipatnam. This contributed to its growth and prosperity. At its peak its territory included most of today's Odisha, and down to Madras.

To alleviate the congestion caused by a growing population, the 4th Qutb Shahi king, Ibrahim Quli, thought of developing a new city on the south bank of Musi, a few miles east of Golconda, on the road to Machlipatnam. 

However it was his successor Muhammad Quli, who actually started the work. The new city was named Shahr-e-Haidar (Haidar is one of the names of Imam Hazrat Ali, the preceptor of the Shia sect).



Muhammad Quli, the builder of Hyderabad


A bridge across Musi was constructed (today's Purana Pul) to ferry men and materials for the new city's construction. 



Purana Pul


Almost the very first structure constructed was Charminar, in 1591 AD. 



Charminar


Over the next 8 decades the city prospered and drew businessmen, migrants and visitors from all over India and the world. Inevitably, its prosperity brought conflict with the Mughals, who, by then had conquered most of the north. 

Under Aurangzeb, the Mughal forces launched several forays against Golconda/Hyderabad, from their Deccan headquarters of Aurangabad. Finally, in 1676, Aurangzeb's forces defeated the forces of Abul Hasan Tanashah, the last Qutb Shahi king. 

Thus ended the 160 year rule of the Qutb Shahis. Hyderabad became the Deccan “Suba” of the Mughal Empire. However its seat of power remained at Aurangabad.



In 1713, 6 years after Aurangzeb died, Emperor Farrukhsiyar appointed Mir Qamaruddin Khan Siddiqui, a trusted warrior and companion of Aurangzeb, as Governor of the Deccan. He was given the title “Nizam-ul-mulk” (Administrator of the Realm). 

Siddiqui however was recalled to Delhi because of internecine feuds in the Court. He ended up staying in Delhi for 9 years, until, fed up by the debauchery and feuds, he decided to return to Aurangabad in 1724 AD. 

But in his 9 years absence, Mubariz Khan had set himself up as Viceroy. Siddiqui had to fight and defeat him. He was then given the title “Asaf Jah” (Capable one) by Emperor Muhammad Shah Rangila. Siddiqui thus became “Nizam-ul-Mulk Asaf Jah".


Mir Qamaruddin Siddiqui, Nizam-ul-Mulk Asaf Jah I 
The First Nizam of Hyderabad


Asaf Jah's seat was at Aurangabad. Though he administered in the name of the Emperor he was practically independent because Mughal central power was weakening. The Asaf Jahi dynasty which he ended up founding, would rule Hyderabad for the next 225 years.

Qamaruddin Siddiqui's successor was Ali Khan. It is during his rule that developments took place that led to the emergence of Secunderabad. He took over in 1762 AD.


Nizam Ali Khan, Asaf Jah II

Ali Khan made the momentous decision of moving the capital of the Deccan Suba from Aurangabad to Hyderabad. Perhaps this was because he realised that there was no point looking northward towards Delhi any more. 

Ali Khan ruled for 40 years as the Second Nizam. Hyderabad bloomed once again, since the seat of power shifted back to the city. It saw explosive growth towards the south and east. 

Ali Khan's rule was contemporaneous with several events which shaped the geopolitics not only of India, but of the world. American war of independence took place in 1776 AD. The French Revolution took place at the end of the century. 

It was while Ali Khan was ruling Hyderabad that colonial expansion by European powers was also picking up speed in India. The Europeans had started filling up the vacuum caused by the disintegration of the Mughal Empire. The French and the English, who had both set up East India Companies, had started turning from traders into colonisers. They were also vying with each other for supremacy in India. 

In 1757, with the defeat of Sirajudaula (Nawab of Bengal) by Clive at Plassey, the British gained the upper hand against the French in North India. Sirajudaula had been supported by the French under Dupleix. 




In the next 3 decades the British rapidly spread in the north of the country. After that, inevitably, they turned their attention southward. 

At this time French presence was still strong in the southern kingdoms, specially in Mysore, Hyderabad etc. At the end of the 18th century. Mysore under Hyder Ali and then Tipu, was a major threat to the British. The Nizam was alternately friendly and antagonistic towards Tipu. He was also frequently battling the Marathas. 

By now the British had 2 main aims:
(a) remove French presence from India
(b) reduce military threat from Indian states 

To achieve these aims, the East India Company, under its Governor Generals Hastings, Cornwallis, Shore and Wellesley, formulated and fleshed out a strategy. 

This strategy was based on conquest of native states if possible, and treaty-based alliances with them where necessary.

Obviously the British strategy under the treaty-based approach was to achieve their above aims. Accordingly they incorporated suitable clauses in such Treaties such as those mentioned below:
  • The Native State would remove French presence from their Court
  • A British Force would be stationed in the State at the State's expense, ostensibly for safety of the Ruler

  • The two parties would help each other against common enemies 

The first Native State which they approached with such a set of Treaties was Hyderabad. 

Nizam Ali Khan's frequent battles with Tipu and the Marathas had left Hyderabad in a precarious financial position. It was at this time that the British East India Company proposed a set of "Treaties of Subsidiary Alliance" to the Nizam. Under these treaties the two would ally, fight Tipu, and also combine against common enemies.

Ironically, just 3 decades earlier the East India Company had approached the same Nizam for grant of Northern Circar (Orissa) as a “jagir”. Now, because of financial ruin caused by wars and because of another looming war with Tipu, the Nizam was reduced to accepting British demands.

Surely there are lessons in this?

The name "Treaty of Subsidiary Alliance" was because the expense of the Company Force to be placed in the Native State would be met by a Subsidy from the Nizam. 

The Treaty signed between the East India Company and Nizam Ali Khan is important because it was signed with the purpose of the two parties joining hands against Tipu Sultan. This is the preamble of the 1798 Treaty


The Preamble of the Treaty of 1798 
between East India Company and the Nizam 
(Excerpted from "The Nizam – His History and Relations with the British Government Vol I" 
By Henry George Briggs)


The Treaty basically had the following clauses:
  1. East India Company would station 6000 (later increased to 8000) troops in Hyderabad for the protection of Hyderabad. This force was called the Subsidiary Force.
  2. The cost of the troops would be borne by the Nizam.
  3. The Nizam would provide a place for the troops to stay.
  4. French presence at the Nizam's court would be removed.
  5. The two allies would help each other in their battles against common enemies.
  6. Goods and services required by the troops would be allowed to be imported from other provinces free of customs duties. 
Shortly after the Treaty was signed the combined East India Company - Nizam forces defeated Tipu in 1799. Tipu was killed at The Battle of Srirangapatna. Mysore's territories were divided between the two, with the Nizam getting the present Rayalaseema region. 

However the Nizam had to cede his shares of spoils from the Mysore victory to the East India Company almost immediately to pay for the expenses of the Subsidiary Force. 

But back to our story about the origin of Secunderabad. 

The Treaty of Subsidiary Alliance also affected the  development of the city of Hyderabad. 

A Residency was built on the north bank of the Musi River at Chaderghat, to serve as the Resident's Office & Residence. The location allowed the Resident to keep an eye on the Nizam's Court at Chow Mohalla. This building today is the Koti Women's College.

The question came up as to where the 8000 troops British troops would stay. Nizam Ali Khan specified a spot on the northeastern shores of Hussain Sagar, in the area stretching from today's Kavadiguda to today's Sardar Patel Road, and west up to Begumpet.

By the time the new settlement came into existence Ali Khan had passed away. His successor Sikandar Jah had taken over as the third Nizam. James Kirkpatrick had also been removed as Resident (on suspicion that he had grown too close to the Nizam!). 


Nizam Sikandar Jah, Asaf Jah III


A name needed to be given to the new settlement where the Company troops were stationed. Kirkpatrick's successor, Sydenham, suggested that the settlement be named Secunderabad after the new Nizam.

The Nizam graciously accepted the suggestion. A “firman” was issued in 1806, and the new settlement was christened Secunderabad.



Translation of letter by Nizam Sikandar Jah, naming East India Company's Cantonment as Secunderabad


So this is how Secunderabad was born. 

Since the terms of its origin encouraged free entry of goods and people, it became a very different place from Hyderabad. Why? The Treaty had mandated free entry of goods for the use of the troops. This meant  that the new town attracted people from all over - Parsis, Marwaris, Tamilians, etc., who came to the place pursuing business. In modern terminology one could even call it a "free port".

Secunderabad thus became a melting pot. More cosmopolitan than Hyderabad. Better focus on education and technology. Mix of languages, culture, communities and religions. A business centric city, unlike the feudal Hyderabad. 


GROWTH AND DEVELOPMENT OF SECUNDERABAD AFTER ITS FOUNDING IN 1806 

From the very beginning Secunderabad had two distinct areas.
  1. The areas where troops were quartered (the “Lashkar” area, or the Cantonment),
  2. The civilian area, occupied by civilians who came in to provide goods and services to the troops.
As we noted, migration into Secunderabad from all over India was fueled by the exemption of Customs Duties on imports provided in the Treaty of Subsidiary Alliance. So there was a large migrant population in Secunderabad right from the beginning.

Let us first look at the development of the “Lashkar” area of Secunderabad. 

As per the Treaty, the purpose of having the Subsidiary Force was to fight common enemies. 

At the start of the 19th century the common enemy were the Marathas. The Subsidiary Force was constantly on the move to fight battles against the Marathas. So there was no need for permanent construction in “Lashkar”. Whenever they were back at the base in Secunderabad, the troops lived in tents.

The Cantonment housing the Subsidiary Force was thus basically a tented city.

Barely any construction can be seen in this picture (c.1850 AD), which is taken from Moula Ali hill looking west towards Safilguda Lake.


Secunderabad – A view from the Moula Ali Hill c. 1850

As we have seen earlier, the Subsidiary Force was a British Force, with Native Troops being commanded by British officers. 

But under the Treaty the Nizam was also obliged to provide his own Army to help the British in wars against common enemies. Around 1810 AD the Resident Henry Russell declared that Nizam's troops were not up to the mark being poor in training and morale. His solution was to raise one more Force, at the Nizam's expense (of course!), to allow the Nizam to meet his commitment.

This Force was raised, with contributions from Jagirdars and others. Much later, around 1850 AD, it was named the “Hyderabad Contingent”. 

The Hyderabad Contingent had several separate “Risalas” or contingents. It was quartered separate from the Subsidiary Force, in Bolarum.

Thus Bolarum (home of the Hyderabad Contingent) and Secunderabad (home of the Subsidiary Force) were separate cantonments. They would remain separate till 1906, when the two were finally merged and Hyderabad Contingent was absorbed in the Indian Army.

To pay for the expenses of Hyderabad Contingent, the Nizam, in 1853 was forced to hand over to the British the revenues from the district of Berar in central India, practically ceding Berar to them. This would remain a bone of contention between Nizam and British till 1947.

When and why did permanent construction start in Secunderabad and Bolarum cantonments? 

Permanent construction picked up pace only after the 1857 War of Independence, during which the Residency in Chaderghat was attacked by rebels.
Though the attack was repulsed, the British decided on fortification. They built an Entrenchment (a ground level fort) starting around 1860 in the area stretching from today's Detention Barracks in Trimulgherry to today's Military Hospital.


Trimulgherry Entrenchment c.1880

The Entrenchment was designed to accommodate the entire British population if necessary. 

A picket of soldiers was placed as an advance guard south of the Entrenchment to warn of any threat from Hyderabad. The place where the picket was posted is still called Picket.

A canon pointing southward in the direction of Hyderabad was also placed on a nearby rocky hillock. This rock came to be called Gun Rock.



Gun Rock Hill


As in Secunderabad, permanent construction also took place in Bolarum where the Hyderabad Contingent was quartered. Holy Trinity Church came up in 1847, said to have been part financed by Queen Victoria herself.


Holy Trinity Church Bolarum, constructed c 1847


The Bolarum Residency came up around 1860. The building belonged to the 4th Nizam, Nasir-ud-Dowlah, and was allowed to be used as the Resident's country home, and as a place where visiting high dignitaries such as the Governor General could stay.



Bolarum Residency, c 1880

To provide a place for the officers to unwind, the Secunderabad Public Rooms came up on a hunting lodge in Thokatta Village owned by Nawab Salar Jung I, the Prime Minister under the 6th Nizam Mahaboob Ali Pasha. It would later be called the Gymkhana, United Services Club, etc. Today we know it as Secunderabad Club, one of the oldest colonial era clubs in India.


Secunderabad Club, c 1902


A picturesque lake and a hillock with a lone palm tree on it lay just to the south of the Club. This space is today occupied by the Jubilee Bus Stand. The lake, the hillock, and of course the palm tree, are all gone now.


One Tree Hill
The site is today occupied by Jubilee Bus Stand Secunderabad


Bungalows came up all over the cantonment for officers to stay in. (The word “Bungalow” is from Bengal, where the design of this airy, high ceilinged house, with 6 to 8 rooms surrounded by an open verandah, originated).


The Retreat - a bungalow in Bolarum
Winston Churchill stayed in this bungalow for a few months in the 1890s as young subaltern


Let us now look at civilian areas. 

A major road ran north from Hussain Sagar. It came to be called James Street after James Kirkpatrick the Resident who signed the Treaty on behalf of the EIC. Bazars grew around it – Regimental Bazar, General Bazar, etc.


James Street


Oxford Street (SD Road) intersected it, and was a major shopping area for British officers, Jagirdars and Nobles. Alexandra Road (Sardar Patel Road today), a broad boulevard, connected Begumpet to Marredpally, and separated the military and civilian areas.

St Johns Church came up in Marredpally in 1813 - on the road to the future Entrenchment.


Church of St John the Baptist. Constructed c.1813

Ujjaini Mahankali Temple was built by native troops of Hyderabad Contingent fighting near Ujjain, in fulfillment of a vow made to the Goddess for delivering the town from a cholera outbreak. Today it is a major temple, and the centre of the Bonalu festival in Secunderabad.


Ujjaini Mahankali Temple, General Bazar. Constructed c.1813


“Ranigunj” (“Gunj” means Market) was named for “Maharani” Victoria, after her Delhi Durbar of 1877. 

An arch in Ranigunj exists even today, throws light on how the market got its name. 


Victoria Grain Market – Constructed c.1883


At the top of the arch is an inscription in English, Telugu and Urdu.




The English inscription reads "Victoria Grain Market Square"
The Telugu one reads "Maharani Dhanya Vikrayashala" - Maharani Grain Market.
The Urdu one reads "Khudawanda Kaiser Bagh ko Abaad Karo". Kaiser, again, is "ruler", or "the sovereign". The arch was erected in honour of Queen Victoria, at the time of her Delhi Durbar.  

In Urdu "ganj" means "market. The place therefore became "Maharani Gunj" (the Queen's Market), or, later, "Ranigunj" 

A 120 ft high Clock Tower was built in 1890 on a 10 acre plot by the Resident Sir Chichele Plowden. It allowed ordinary citizens to have knowledge of the time of day. The clock was donated by Seth Lachchmi Narayan Ramgopal.



The Secunderabad Clock Tower. Constructed c 1896

After places, let us look at people. I mentioned earlier that Customs Duty exemption attracted businessmen. This made Secunderabad cosmopolitan (unlike Hyderabad).

Parsis came as bankers and settled in Parsigutta, James St and Oxford St. The Parsi Fire Temple in James St was built in 1847.


Parsi Fire Temple, James Street. Constructed c 1847


Mudaliars from Tamil Nadu were suppliers to the Army and settled in Khalasiguda. They set up educational institutions such as Mahboob College, Keyes High School, etc. Padmarao Nagar is named after Dewan Bahadur Padma Rao Mudaliar.


Mahboob College


Marwari businessmen like Dewan Bahadur Ramgopal, set up industries. Ramgopalpet is named for him. Some Sikh troops sent by Maharaja Ranjit Singh at the request of the 3rd Nizam were settled in several “chhavnis” – including Sikh Village.

“Spanish Mosque” in Begumpet was built by Viqar-ul-Umra Iqbal-ud-Dowla, a Paigah (Nobleman in the Nizam's court) who also built Falaknuma Palace and Paigah Palace.


Spanish Mosque (Jama Masjid Iqbal-ud-Dowla)

Sir Ronald Ross discovered how malaria propagates on the mosquito infested banks of Hussain Sagar. He later won the Nobel Prize.



Sir Ronald Ross

Raja Deen Dayal, pioneer of photography, who went on to become the Court photographer for several princes, also settled in Secunderabad. Many of the pictures in this post are his work.


Raja Deen Dayal, doyen of photography in India


In addition to Secunderabad a second focus of migrants was in Chaderghat. Bazars around Chaderghat Residency such as Sultan Bazar, Begum Bazar, Troop Bazar etc. were in fact called the Residency Bazars.

A third focus was Bolarum. Bazars such as Bolarum Bazar, Pioneer Bazar, Doveton Bazar, Risala Bazar, allowed farmers from eastern areas to sell produce to troops. “Alwars” from Tamil Nadu also settled in “Alwal”.

 

Balaji Venkateswara Temple in Alwal
Built by Raja Chandulal, Diwan under Nizam Sikandar Jah


A major role in the development of Secunderabad was played by developments in transportation technology. 

RAILWAY:
Starting 1870, Nizam State Guaranteed Railways constructed lines to Bombay and Madras, and Hyderabad Godavari Valley Railways to Aurangabad.
This eased movement, and brought in modern technology and industry into the city for operations and maintenance. Anglo Indians linked to Railways settled in Tarnaka, which was called “Little England”.

Secunderabad Railway Station c.1928


ROAD TRANSPORT: 
Nizam State Roadways was started by the 7th Nizam, Osman Ali, in 1932. Public motor transport thus became available. 

An interesting fact is that registration numbers of all buses had the letter “Z” in them (after Zahrunissa Begum – Nizam Osman Ali's mother). This continues even today. The buses run by the Telangana and Andhra Pradesh Road Transport Corporations always have the letter "Z" in them! The motor car also came in.


A Nizam State Roadways bus on Tank Bund - c. 1932 


Private vehicles such as motor cars also made an appearance. 




New roads came up. Kingsway (RP Road) came up in 1930s to decongest James Street. This aided the growth of the city as people could now travel larger distances much quicker than earlier. Suburbs started coming up.


AIR TRAVEL
Begumpet aerodrome was built in the 1930s. This directly connected the city to the world, giving a fillip to connectivity with other Indian and foreign cities. 


Begumpet Airport Terminal Building c. 1937


All this development led to an increase in the population of Secunderabad. By 1891 itself, the "Residency areas" had 26% of the city's population, while Chaderghat had 30% and Hyderabad had 44%.

Total population of Hyderabad, Chaderghat and 
Residency areas (Residency Bazars, Secunderabad, Bolarum): 4,15,039


As we noted at the beginning, the Treaty between East India Company and the Nizam had led to two separate cantonments to house the "Subsidiary Force" at Secunderabad and the "Hyderabad Contingent" at Bolarum. Originally the Subsidiary Force was supposed to have the British troops sent to Hyderabad as part of the Treaties, and the Hyderabad Contingent was supposed to have the troops supposed to be provided by the Nizam when needed. 

After 1857, when the British Crown took over administration of India from the East India Company, the Subsidiary Force became part of the Indian Army.

In 1906, the Hyderabad Contingent at Bolarum was also merged with Indian Army. This led to the cantonment of Bolarum being merged with Secunderabad. To do this, 13 intervening villages had to also be amalgamated with the two. The contours of today's Secunderabad now became visible.



Residency Order regarding merger of Bolarum and Secunderabad, and amalgamation of 
13 intervening Moghlai Villages 





Merger of Bolarum and Secunderabad Cantonments required 13 intervening villages ("Moghlai Villages") to also be amalgamated into the new entity called Secunderabad


The boundaries of Secunderabad after its merger with the 13 “Moghlai Villages” and Bolarum were notified,  and boundary pillars erected.


Excerpt from the Notification defining the boundaries of Secunderabad



A typical Cantonment Boundary Pillar (CBP)

Though the Treaties between the East India Company and the Nizam had allowed British troops to stay in what became Secunderabad, the land occupied by the troops was never assigned to the British. This was well known to to the British, and accepted by them. For example, a 1925 report by Willam Barton, the Resident, concluded that British did not own any land in Secunderabad. They were only allowed to stay, and land occupied by would revert to Nizam when not needed for military purpose.


Excerpts from the Barton Report 1925


Using this fact the 7th Nizam took back Chadarghat in 1933 since he wanted to move to King Kothi. In 1945, the area south of Alexandra Road (i.e., today's RP Road, MG Rd, etc.) was also taken back. Both these were done through Rendition Agreements signed with the British.


Secunderabad - c. 1919 - 1930



Secunderabad - after rendition of RP Road area back to the Nizam in 1945


In 1948 Hyderabad became part of India. 


Gen Syed Ahmed El Edroos, Chief of Hyderabad Army,
 surrendering to Gen J N Chaudhuri - Sept. 1948

The portion that had reverted to Nizam Govt in 1945 became Secunderabad Municipality (later upgraded to a Corporation). In 1960 it was merged with MCH. Rest of Secunderabad became a Cantonment under Govt. of India.

Another influx of immigrants came because of Partition refugees, and because several central establishments related to Research and Defence came up. Areas like Sindhi Colony, Vikrampuri, Gunrock, A S Rao Nagar, Sainik Puri developed.
Iconic schools and educational institutions include St Anns Schools in Secunderabad, Bolarum and Tarnaka, St Patricks, Wesley College, and several Central Schools came in. Cinema halls and restaurants proliferated.


Sangeet and Anand Cinemas


In 1957 the Bolarum Residency (today's) Rashtrapati Nilayam was purchased by the Union Government from the State Government. It became the residence of the President of India during the annual southern sojourns.


Govt of India note on the purchase of Rashtrapathi Nilayam - 1957

Today, more than 200 years after it was founded, Secunderabad occupies less than 10% of the metropolis' area and comprises bustling civilian areas that surround the cantonment.

Hope you enjoyed this marathon post on the Origins and Development of Secunderabad. 


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